HP DV9000 Series Heatsink Modification
The HP DV9000 Series is a feature rich laptop with 17″ screen, two hard drive slots, 2 RAM slots up to 4GB, Media Center Remote, Keyboard with number pad, poor cooling, and overheating components. In all seriousness, this laptop is quite remarkable with the right modifications to enhance cooling of the critical components: CPU, GPU and Northbridge. The overheating issues must be understood to solve the problem.
I’ve compiled a list of flaws in the design of this computer (BOLD items will be fixed in this mod)
- Primary hard drive is next to the GPU (the hottest component in the computer)
- Secondary hard drive acts solely as an external drive
- Heatsink configuration allows heat from the CPU to travel over the Northbridge.
- Northbridge is offset from the height of the CPU
- Cheap thermal pads are used to replace thermal paste
- GPU does not have its own fan for cooling
- GPU does not have thermal paste on it; instead a metal sticker (?) is used for cooling
- CPU fan gathers dust in the vents and line of lint is created in the back of the vent.
The list goes on but these are the major issues I’ve noticed.
Before we begin, I must say that any information used here to perform modification to your computer is the choice of the user. Be aware that I cannot take responsibility for any damages incurred by following my modification. I can assure you that these modifications where done several weeks prior to me posting this for confirmation that they work.
This modification was done to a HP DV9500/9700 laptop. There may be subtle differences between the different models in the DV9000 series. Make sure you do enough research to confirm that we have laptops with the same layout. This modification was done to a Intel-based version. The AMD version has 4 mounting screws over the processor. This may yield different results so be aware of this.Â
Pre-Mod Testing
HWMonitor is a great tool to use to record your pre-modification temperatures.
Testing Techniques:
- Running the computer in idle (no programs running) after 30 minutes.
- Running a high quality video or playing a video game for 30 minutes.

Video Guide:
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t9w-khwIj3U[/youtube]
Written Guide:
Preparation of materials:
It is preferred that the copper used be polished on both sides to allow for a shine. This allows for better surface contact and therefore better thermal conductivity. For my shim pieces, they were only polished on one side because I took them from an old copper heatsink. If you are in the same situation, I recommend using the polished side toward the chip and the rough side toward the heatsink. Since we will be using thermal paste on both sides as an intermediate layer, it may not matter as much in regards to the polishing. I just know it is preferred that both sides be polished either way.
Disassembly:
There are many videos on YouTube, which I did not author, but provide easy to follow steps on how to take the DV9000 series laptops apart. Keep track of all your screws by placing them in a dish of some kind. All the black screws are interchangeable and the silver screws are as well. The only silver screws which are not are the ones for the WiFi card.
Cleaning:
Make sure to clean the die of the CPU, GPU and Northbridge properly such that no residual thermal paste exists on the package or die of those chips.

Each die should be shiny just like the above picture.

The same shine should be true for the corresponding heatsinks for each chip. The GPU heatsink does not usually look like the picture above. A hard black and silver tape is used to cool the GPU. This does a very poor job of this and usually causes your GPU to overheat very easily. I recommend removing this tape and cleaning the GPU’s copper pad and I’ve done above. There is so black residue which remains but this shouldn’t affect the cooling too much. I know this because my GPU sits at 55 degrees C on low-graphical operations and hits 75 degrees C max on gaming applications (Fallout New Vegas & Gears of War PC). I never see 80 degrees C.
Application:
In the video guide, I show you how to apply the copper shims and copper penny to the die of each chip properly. Make sure to clean the copper shims with alcohol before applying the thermal paste and shims.

I didn’t take a picture of the Northbridge during this step. Make sure to use the same amount of thermal paste on the Northbridge as was used on the CPU. The GPU in the picture above has a little too much thermal paste. Try to aim for the amount of thermal paste seen on the CPU for every chip.

For this step, I didn’t take a picture of the CPU but apply the shim to the CPU the same way as it was done on the GPU and apply the same amount of thermal paste. The copper penny on the Northbridge in the picure should be applied with the back down for more surface area contact. Also, use the length of the building on the back of the penny to match the long end of the Northbridge die. Your penny should be upside down or right side up like in the picture. The penny in this picture is a little low, make sure the penny is away from the raised components on the chip. Look at the picture below as the penny is further way from the components.

Last, but not least, apply the GPU heatsink FIRST! You will not be able to apply it if you apply the CPU heatsink first. You should feel added resistance because of the shim. This ensures the proper contact is being made. If there is too much resistance, this means you applied the incorrect shim or your shim is too thick.

I used a micrometer to measure the thickness of my GPU & CPU shims and achieved a result of 0.49 mm. Requesting or making shims which are 0.5 mm is perfect from my experience.
Apply the CPU heatsink next but make sure the heatsink fan is seated properly before tightening the screws over the CPU. There are two feet which need to fit into the edge of the motherboard to ensure proper seating of the fan. Once in place, tighten the screws over the CPU and center the copper penny to the Northbridge heatsink.
This is extremely important, DO NOT FORGET to plug in the heatsink fan which is circled in RED.
Assembly:
Follow the disassembly videos in reverse to reassemble the laptop. If you have any questions, post below.
Test:
For the temperature testing, use the same HWMonitor program to see what your temperatures sit at. Make sure to use the same testing technique used in the pre-test to achieve similar results and a real reading of the difference in temperature after the modification.
Again, feel free to ask me any questions you may have below.
Regards,
JAmerican
you are doing a good job. keep going!
I have tried the shims and a penny. I think that in transporting laptop via car on trips seems to allow shims to move out of place and then a failure soon returns. I’ve been through this a couple of times. I wonder what can be done. also shims don’t seem to make much difference to heat.
I am looking for a fix on fan speed but not ready to try this programing trick I found on line.
Tried this on my machine, did it a little differently though, used a cooper shim as thick as a penny for the NB. Now I just have to put this mess back together…
Hey, bro i have a compaq (cq45 106au) laptop..without a dedicated video memory. It has already been repaired for damaged gpu(0verheating)… this is my heat sink(http://cdn.overclock.net/9/97/97971803_DSC0011dddd6.jpeg)… the above tutorial is for a laptop having a dedicated video memory and heatsink for the same.. here is my mother board(http://cdn.overclock.net/0/04/600x450px-LL-040ec05d_DSC00101dddd.jpeg)… can i apply copper shim on my embeded gpu ?? HELP plz
Also, as u can see in the picture that the part of my heatsink that covers my gpu had pads dusty, old and worn out so i removed them and put some paste but i think the contact b/w is lost and that is why i am experiencing heat problem.. Any ways the material under the pad is not copper like on the cpu covering part of heatsink ! Is it ok ?
@coco, I need more information to be able to help you. The shim is used to provide better thermal contact between the heatsink and the CPU or GPU. If the heatsink is properly contacting the CPU or GPU, a shim would not help and would possibly damage the laptop. If you have a gap then you have to figure out how much of a gap you have and use a shim that appropriate for the gap size.
I have an alloy for the shims…it is made of tin, would this be okay?
G
If you look at the thermal conductivity of tin, you’ll see that it is 66.8 W·m−1·K−1. If you compare that to copper, you’ll see that it is 6x less the thermal conductivity. This means that tin will work 6x less than copper. I think you should stick with copper or something that is mostly copper.
Thank you for your effort.
I would like to apply what you’ve done on my DV9000, but I have a question. The architecture of my CPU is AMD, for that I would like to know if can I use the same thickness of Copper Shim.
My CPU look like this image : http://cdn100.iofferphoto.com/img/item/156/309/033/TuFG-V97DZjJmQwCYUQt.jpg
Thank you.
Cheers,
Good job! By the way i have a dv9000 and i tried this same method today and when i booted up it made continuous beeps. I used 0.5 copper shim but the thing is, the copper shim is not that wide. It sits on about 75% of the copper part area of the gpu’s sink. Is this the reason? Thanks a lot!
Sorry forgot to say. The laptop boots normally and loads windows but it doesn’t stop beeping lol